Amid the plethora of Italian eateries in North Denver, Locanda stands apart primarily on the merits of its impeccable service (the host is a hoot and a half) and its surprisingly open-minded wine list. They make their dough and sauce from scratch, and use only the best produce, which makes their pizza and calzones kick out the jams. Bring the kids. They will get a kick out of watching the cooks do their thing in the wide open kitchen.